No one knows for certain when the Lolo Trail was first used by mankind. The first record we have of it is when Lewis & Clark and their Corps of Discovery came over it in September, 1805. At that time the Indians used this trail for trips across the Bitterroot Mountains and on into Montana to visit with the Flathead Indians and also for travel to the buffalo ranges. At this time they possessed many horses in uncounted numbers. The Lolo Trail gets its name from the mountain pass (and a small stream) with the same name at the head waters of the Lochsa River located high up in the Bitterroot Mountains on the Idaho-Montana border about 35 miles southwest of present-day Missoula, Montana.

The horse, as we know it, is not native to America. This animal was brought to Mexico by the Spanish explorer Cortez in 1520. From that time onward this animal gradually advanced northward. At first the Indians traded with the Spaniards for the horses, but later they raided the herds and the stolen animals were traded to the northern Indians. It was a slow process, but the horse eventually worked its way into Idaho Territory. Historians estimate that the horse in any significant numbers was not known in central Idaho much earlier than 100 years before the arrival of Lewis & Clark.

The Lolo Trail proper has its beginnings on the west or Idaho side of the Bitterroot mountains…at the confluence of the North Fork of the Clearwater River with its mainstream which is approximately 5 miles down stream from present day Orofino, Idaho. Its eastern end is where the Lolo Creek empties its waters into the Bitterroot River, about ten miles south of Missoula, Montana. This section of the Trail is just over 100 miles long.

Beginning from the north Idaho city of Orofino on the banks of the main Clearwater River and traveling in a north easterly direction, a traveler would begin climbing up from Orofino and then would pass through what is known as the Weippe Prairie. From this flat prairie the Lolo Trail begins the ascent of the main divide between the North and Middle Forks of the Clearwater River through inhospitable vastnesses and over rock-ribbed ridges which could have had no lure except as a route of travel between two more desirable points. Steep slopes, rugged multiple creek canyons, heavy underbrush, and chocking stands of red and alpine fir trees, pine, hemlock, and tamarack block most all routes of travel.

The Lolo Trail reaches its highest altitude at a place that is called the Indian Post Office. Here the trail pierces the skyline at an altitude of 7,035 feet above sea level. Lewis & Clark mention this point in their journals as they passed by it on their return over the trail in 1806. They say that their Nez Perce Indian guide asked them to stop at the spot, which was marked with several huge piles of stones and have a “council smoke.” Their guide indicated that the Post Office had a religious significance. To this day the piles of stones (Rock Cairns) remain as they were over 200 years ago when they were visited by the Corps of Discovery. Many Nez Perce Indians living today on the Nez Perce Reservation claim to be able to read the messages conveyed by these piles of stones. The oldest Indians say the stones so stacked were piled in many different ways, each one of which told a separate story. These were messages from one band to another telling who had passed that way, where was their intended destination, an what was their purpose.

These trail-traveling Indians possessed no trail-making tools or equipment, so they were compelled in their trail-making to follow the paths of least resistance. These were most usually the high rocky ridge tops with little or no vegetation. These wide open routes also served as protection against an attack or ambush by other unfriendly Indian tribes or raiding parties. When on the march the Indians stayed as much in the open as was possible keeping to the open meadow land or “parks” in the timber as it afforded greater protection against attacks.

Lewis & Clark reached the eastern end of the Lolo Trail, at the mouth of Lolo Creek, which they called Traveler’s Rest Creek. These explorers had traveled in a northerly direction from Salmon City, Idaho Territory, up to the source waters of the North Fork of the Salmon River and then over what is now called Lost Trail Pass and thence down into the Bitterroot River Valley. From that point they journeyed downstream in a northerly direction until they reached the eastern end of the Lolo Trail, at the mouth of Lolo Creek. This same small stream was called Traveler’s Rest Creek. They rested here long enough to put their outfit in the best condition possible for the hardships they knew would lie ahead.

Then on September 11, 1805 the Corps began their westward journey over the Bitterroot Mountains and along the Lolo Trail. They advanced seven miles that first day of mountain travel and then camped. On September 12, they continued up the Lolo Creek another 23 miles, and on the 13th reached the healing waters of a natural hot springs. Here the Indian guide evidently grew confused and detoured three miles out of the proper course, but eventually corrected their path of travel and regained the trail at a small grassy meadow, where the horses were rested and refreshed. This resting place was very near the actual Lolo Pass between Montana and Idaho. Lolo creek peters out before the Lolo Pass is reached though on the western side of the Pass,…Pack Creek, a tributary of the Lochsa River has its source almost at the crest of the mountains. On either side of the Pass, the mountains slope gently up to altitudes of several hundred feet above the point where Lolo Trail crosses the mountain tops. There is a wide grassy meadow at Lolo Pass with a marked elevation of 5,254 feet.

After crossing the pass the expedition journals record: “We followed the course of this new creek for two miles and encamped at a spot where the mountains are close in on each side. Other mountains covered with snow are in view to the southeast and southwest.” This spot referred to is what is now known as the lower end of Packer’s Meadow. It is beautiful and has an abundance of Camas bulbs to harvest for food. Meriwether Lewis called the Camas bulbs “quamash.” On September 14 the expedition again got under way. Their journal says: “The day was very cloudy, with rain and hail in the valleys, while on the tops of the mountains some snow fell.” They continued on the right side of Packer Creek, crossed a high mountain, and at a distance of six miles reached its junction with Crooked Creek. Crossing this stream, they began the ascent of a very high and steep mountain. Reaching the top, they continued along the crest for nine miles. On the other side (the west side of the pass) they encountered White Sand Creek, down which they continued for another two miles until they came opposite a small island at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river. It is here that Powell Ranger Station is now located in Idaho. Here camp was made. Their journals record: “The mountains which we crossed today were very much more difficult than those of yesterday; the last was particularly fatiguing being steep and stony, broken by fallen timber, and thickly overgrown by pine, spruce, fir, hemlock, and tamarack. Although we made only 17 miles we were all very weary. The whole stock of animal food is now exhausted and we killed a colt, on which we made a hearty supper.” They called the spot “Colt Killed Creek.” It is known today as White Sand Creek. Below the junction of Crooked Creek and Colt Killed Creek their journal records that the combined stream is 80 yards wide, with a swift current and a stony channel. This new combined stream is called the Lochsa River. The Indians called it “Kooskooskie” which means clear water…crystal clear water. The physical geography is as much today what it actually was at the time the expedition traveled through it in 1805.

Scholars today are still questioning why the Corps of Discovery came down the Lochsa River through this section of their journey. The original Lolo Trail traverses a different route. Back on the trail three or four miles from the camp at Packer’s Creek is a trail leaving the first high ridge which crosses Crooked Creek, then on westerly past Powell Junction, on a high mountain six miles north of the Powell Pasture, thence westerly to the high watershed between the drainages of the North Fork of the Clearwater River and the Lochsa River. This is the real course of the Lolo Trail.

On Sunday, September 15, 1805 they resumed their journey. Their path led along the right side of the Lochsa River over a steep rocky point to an Indian fishing weir. This was a famous Indian fishing grounds in the early years for catching anadromous fish, ocean-going fish–salmon and steelhead. The party then turned to the right (north), leaving the river, and began the ascent of a mountain, through heaps of downed timber, which had been fire and wind-swept. Several horses lost their footing and rolled down the steep incline. After four miles of travel they arrived at the top of a snowy mountain, where there was a spring. There they rested both men and animals for two hours. They had no trail to follow, but were heading for the high watershed and the Lolo Trail. The explorers were following the ridge west of Papoose Creek. After traveling another four miles, they camped for the night. At last they were back on the Lolo Trail.

They killed two pheasants (grouse) during the day, which constituted their evening meal. Now it may seem strange to the readers or listeners that wild game should have been so scarce. However, the explanation is clear to one who knows the habits of wild animals. During the summer time, deer and elk and other game animals inhabit the high ridges of mountain ranges. When storms begin in the fall season, the animals slowly work their way down to the lowlands. When winter comes in full force, the animals congregate close to the larger streams at low altitudes where they can feed and move around without interference by the deep snows. At the time Lewis & Clark came over the Lolo Trail, the fall storms had already begun, and most of the wild game animals had left the vicinity of the sky-line trail. The place where they camped that night and ate their supper of fresh grouse was at an elevation of 7,000 feet above sea level. They were roughly directly east of what is now Cayuse Junction, but only a few miles west of where they should have been the night before if they had not detoured by way of the Lochsa River.

The next day it began snowing three hours before daylight and continued snowing all day. Starting out without any breakfast, their path took them over extremely rough going, high altitudes, and highly exposed “hog backs” where it was impossible to follow the trail except by the closest scrutiny to discover horse pack-rubbed trees where former travelers had left their marks. The Indians did not practice “blazing” trails (placing cut marks through the bark on the tree trunks) as was the practice of white men. In the afternoon, the Corps stopped to rest. Captain Clark went on ahead to select a new campsite and have bonfires burning when the weary marchers arrived. Their line of march was directly through the almost impenetrable forests of the Clearwater drainages. The expedition finally stopped that afternoon on the south side of what is called Spring Mountain. Their campsite was situated at what is known today as “Howard’s Camp.” The saw four deer during the day, but did not get within shooting distance of them. They killed another colt for their supper.

This discussion concludes Part I of II of the Romantic, Tragic, and Historic Lolo Trail.

Peace and Love to All of You…………..Poppa Bear